Sunday, September 25, 2011

Albanian Anthropological observations









We have been in Albania for two weeks and have settled into our assignment of tutoring Ashlie and Isaac. When not on school time, we enjoy taking walks about the city of Korçë. There are always interesting anthropological differences to observe. Here are some of my observations and what I have learned from our host family.

I see many older women wearing all black and some younger women also. This mode of dress indicates they have been widowed. The custom is that they continue to dress in all black and never remarry. It is considered shameful if a widow remarries.

I see wedding dresses in quite a number of shops. It is the custom here for a bride to rent three dresses: one for a Friday night feast with the groom's parents, another for a Saturday dinner with the bride's family, and a third for the Sunday wedding which may take place in a church or city hall. After the wedding the bridal couple drive through the town in a decorated car while honking horns gather everyone's attention.

We see old men gathering in one park to chat while women in aprons and shopping bags gather in another for a chat.

We see cut logs being delivered to houses by small three wheeled trucks or donkey carts. Then men proceed to split the logs by hand as they chop for many hours to prepare the wood for heating in the small wood burning stoves that heat these apartments in the winter. I have been told that it may snow as early as November. This town sits at the elevation of 4,000 feet in a high plateau area between mountain ranges. Will tell you later what kind of weather winter presents here. Right now it is feeling very much like fall in the Midwest.

Many of the streets are narrow cobblestone or combo of broken stone and dirt. These also double as walkways as there are no sidewalks in the residential areas. Unlike Prague where we were looking down to avoid puppy poop, here we look down to dodge donkey dung. Many of the streets are currently dug up to put in larger sewer lines in order for waste water to flow more freely with capacity to also carry flushed toilet paper. This makes for the current bit of inconvenience, but we are grateful to have good water pressure to take showers, do laundry, and the water is safe to drink.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

My Life Inbetween: Reflections on Albania and Life


We have been in Albania for nearly two weeks now and are becoming more adept carrying on our daily routine. We have found that the first few days in a new country are often the most difficult. If you do not have any concept of where your flat is, how to shop, how to get from point A to point B, essentially how to function at any level, you essentially become like a child dependent on his parents for every task in life. Fortunately, whenever we have moved to another country, a person or family has taken us under their wings and taught us the basics. We are grateful to people over the years for showing us around patiently while we learn how to live and not just to survive.

The Lorings are helping us adjust here in Albania. We can now shop successfully for food, go for walks around town (currently staying on our side of town), take the trash out (this is very important) and other basic activities. We even went out to eat on our own once. One item I want to secure early in our stay in any place away from home today is a cell phone. If I have a phone and know that I can call for help to our host family, life is much less scary.

I took a walk this morning by myself as Phyl(Liz)z is a bit under the weather. Korca reminds me a little of Albuquerque, where my brother lives. He can leave his house and be walking in the foothills of the Sandia Mountains within a few minutes. Fortunately we have a similar situation here. I walked up the street past “our” grocery store, continued up toward the Korca Brewery and turn left just before the brewery. If one walks a few hundred meters on the road you pass institutions that make me think how blessed I am. A landmark building is a home for the handicapped. This is actually a wonderful facility that takes good care of its residents, but I can see them looking out the window through barred windows while I am strolling freely up the tarmac toward the sky. Next, I see what I perceive to be a family-built little prayer chapel, but it may be something else. The road becomes very steep when I reach this point, moving from a pleasant grade that raises the pulse somewhat to a cardiac intensive uphill that taxes my body. But, foolishly I attack it with gusto – more on that later.

Near the top of this steep road is an Orthodox Church. I doubt that this marvelous little structure set so high up is attended by many – perhaps it is more of a museum – I don't know. As I reach the church building I make the decision to continue walking upward and not turn off on the road to the track that runs relatively level (no tarmac, just lots of rocks on this road) and loops back to town. I continue on the steep, upward path. I am breathing heavily, but feeling pretty good as I trudge up the steep tarmac. However, about ten or fifteen minutes later, it becomes apparent that this path is going to defeat me. The top of the foothills seems mile off and very much higher. I slow down and walk a little farther when I see an old gentleman sitting on a bench by the road. I break Albanian cultural traditions and greet him with a “Hello”. He naturally looks at me and almost smiles, but it would be just too much for most Eastern Europeans to greet a stranger on the road, in town, or anywhere.

I realize that if he has stopped at this point, maybe I should too. I turn left onto a gravel path to a cell tower but the path seems to go no farther. The old gentleman gets up and starts walking slowly down a path that goes away from the road. I stand and try to decide whether or not follow him down as his ambling looks more recreational than my trekking on the tarmac. While I am pondering the road or the path, I hear the slapping of a jogger's footsteps. I man is jogging down the road and passes me by. Just then a Mercedes roars up the hill. I realize that I am caught “inbetween”.

My chronological age matches more closely that of the older gentleman so peacefully meandering down the path away form the tarmac road. However, my cultural positioning matches more closely the man jogging downhill and the Mercedes roaring up the tarmac. What to do? I want to go down the path, but I somehow end up walking down the tarmac. I find my cultural positioning stronger than my desire to stroll down the path with the older man. Somehow staying on the tarmac seemed safer than walking on the path. I will attempt to choose the path next time.

Albania is the fifth “foreign” country that we have lived in. However, our town, Korca, contains the fewest English speaking people of the place we have lived. Tanzania and Nigeria are former British
colonies and contained large English speaking expat contingents. The Czech Republic was a tourist oriented country and of course we taught in an English language school there so we lived in an English language environment. Mazatlan was a tourist town also and we had an English language church to attend Sunday mornings which put us in touch with a few hundred English speaking people. Here, we are quite isolated linguistically.

We have spent approximately ten percent of our lives living outside the USA. This puts us in good stead for undertaking assignments such as the one we are on. It also causes my world view to be quite different from the typical American, but still worlds away form the typical Czech, Mexican or Albanian. I am “inbetween” many cultures but live for the most part in the culture of the richest country on earth and I greatly appreciate it riches. The riches of America are what allow us to work in other countries!

Why are we in Albania? The answer is simple. We feel equipped by our past and blessed by our present circumstances in life so that we can do things others might find difficult. However, especially to me, John, living in another land and teaching missionary children is a joy. In fact, it is much easier for me to live here and teach than it would be to minister in certain areas at home. God gives us grace and abilities to do different things and I feel that this is mine in particular and that Phyl(Liz) is well equipped for this type of undertaking also. She is so creative in all aspects of life that she can function well in all places and situations. One of the greatest evidences of this fact is how she can make a great meal out of the foods we have been able to buy here.

Our great joy here is working with Ashlie and Isaac. Ashlie is fourteen and a beautiful young lady. She is much like our granddaughter Kaley in personality – not a morning person for one thing. Isaac is a no nonsense type of boy somewhat like our grandson Steve. He is very sharp academically and tackles all assignments with gusto. We supervise their computer based home schooling from 9:00 AM until they finish their work – usually around 2:00 PM. We do take the mandatory (in my mind) snack break around 11:00 each day. It has been fun getting to know Ashlie and Isaac and finding how to best work with the learning styles of these two very different young people. John does the math and science for both of them while PhylLiz usually takes on the Bible, History, Geography, Spelling, etc. Each day is different in who supervises exactly who supervises which subjects depending on the number of assignments each one has for the day and who is away doing a quite rigorous hike or bike ride – each of them go on about a two hour hike or bike ride each week, leaving us with only one student at the beginning of Monday through Thursday. On Fridays we then all go together on a walk/adventure accompanied by food and drinks.

Our first few days here have gone well. We did have a period of about forty-eight hours of clouds, rain and gloomy weather, but for the most part, the weather has been sunny. It was a little too warm the first week, but now that fall is here, our highs are in the sixties and seventies – just right.

On my walk this morning I saw something that I have never seen in America. There were a group of boys playing football (aka soccer in America) in what was essentially a forest. It was an orderly planted forest of pine trees that are quite tall with their lower branches trimmed quite high. My thoughts were that playing on such a field would teach one to keep his head up while dribbling and that passing must be more pinpoint that on an open field. I think these are two lessons that should apply to all of life. We need to keep our thoughts on high while we go about the basics of life and make sure our communications with others are spot on and clear. Otherwise we will be crashing into barriers in life and our words with our family, friends and colleagues will not convey the message we want them to as they bounce off our different personalities.

Speaking of football, the Lorings are great fans and we can watch the Premiership matches with them anytime. Ian and his Albanian friend Holder watch all the Manchester United matches. We will be headed to the Lorings later this afternoon to see Arsenal's match at 4:00 followed by the Man U match at 6:30. I think God knew what he was doing when He brought us here!

Monday, September 19, 2011

Our First Sunday and Monday in Albania

Sunday has come and gone. We attended the service at the Church Ian and Caralee have started here in Korca and enjoyed the experience even though we did not understand the language. The service was much like the one at WFC in Lenexa, the IBCP in Prague and the Vineyard in Mazatlan. It is great to know that the Holy Spirit is alive and well wherever we go and that the same Spirit is of course omnipresent. We will add a brief video of a portion of the worship. You may recognize some of the melodies even though the words are different.

Sunday afternoon we spent at the Lorings for football, food and fellowship. The major attraction was the Manchester United match with Chelsea – United is the family's favorite team. Liz likes Chelsea because of the uniform color. I am one of the disappointed and struggling Liverpool fans. The Tottenham v Liverpool match played clearly on the Loring's TV – we watched the second half. However, the Man U game was scrambled by the satellite and we could not watch it. Several frantic phone calls by Ian and a friend who was also there watching proved fruitful as the picture appeared around the twenty-fifth minute. We (Ian, Holgre and I anyway) all concentrated on the match while Caralee fortunately concentrated on food preparation! We were served delicious multi-grain rolls and a oatmeal scotchie type bar. Ashlie watched some of the game but Isaac had a friend over and was otherwise occupied for most of it.

Isaac requested waffles for dinner and there was near unanimity concerning his request – so waffles it was – with maple syrup, bananas and yogurt. By the time we finished eating and had talked a bit more it was time for us to retire home and prepare for the next day.

Monday came quickly for us following a good nights sleep. Coffee, a little computer time, breakfast, showers and one load of laundry filled the early morning.

Ashlie reported promptly at 9:00 AM for school, but Isaac had his PE – a bike ride from 8 to 10. Ashlie and John did math and science together and were quite successful. Isaac did not come to 11:00 as he was stung by a bee on his bike ride and took a little while to recover from that. The Lorings have hired a young man to take either Ashlie or Isaac out for PE two days a week each. The normal routine is to bike one day and hike the other.

When Isaac came, John did Math, Science and spelling with him while Liz supervised Ashlies' Communications and World History. Liz and Ashlie also went on a short shopping trip for necessary food items to sustain us through school time. At 3:00 PM we declared school is out and the kids left for their house and lunch. We had grilled cheese sandwiches and fruit followed by a rest period.

Now it is time for blogging, games, coffee. We plan on taking a walk soon and looking for restaurants and other places around town.

We terminated our intended long walk early as rain started falling and we had some thunder and lightning.  We walked with our umbrellas up for a while, but it became evident that we were in for more than a short shower and returned home.

Liz fixed dinner with the few items we had - we were going to stop at the grocery store after our walk, but the rain changed things.  We played Quiddler and BananaGrams after eating.  The Internet was down but came back up in time for us to get this posted tonight.

Saturday, September 17, 2011

New to Albania

We expected life in Albania to be different than in any other place we have been, but there is always culture shock.  There are a handful of English speakers, and I doubt we will learn much of the local language in the three months we expect to be here, so we appreciate keeping in touch with family and friends back home.  Internet and skype availability are wonderful.

Add caption
We live in a city of about 60,000 inhabitants.  We were told the city is divided into three sectors:  the Orthodox (the area in which we live), the Muslim, and the Gypsy.  One cultural phenomena that we observed last night as we walked down the main boulevard was that there were great numbers of men walking together and enjoying Turkish coffee in outdoor cafes.  Women walked together in groups and dined together.  We saw very few couples together, but we did see an elderly couple, several mid-age couples, and a few young couples hanging out together.

We ordered our first meal out which was a pizza, because "pizza" is pizza in any language.

Many of the old cobblestone streets are being torn up to put in a new sewer system,   which is a good thing as the lines are too narrow to handle flushing paper down the stool.  So a canister sits beside each toilet to collect the discard paper.  This we take to a trash bin daily.  If that is the only inconvenience we are quite lucky.  We were told that the city of Korce has had 24/7 running water for the last 5 years and is the only city in Albania that has thanks to a good manager of the Italian and German funds who helped make it possible.  We were also told that for only the last 2 years has Korce had electricity 24/7.  Many cities and most villages in Albania still do not have much electric power.

John and I took a long uphill walk this morning(one on which our students showed us yesterday.)  We enjoyed the exercise and the view.  We did however get very warm as the temperatures here are still in the 80's.  It cools off in the evenings which is a very good thing as there is no air conditioning.

We have much to learn and more of life to experience.  We look forward to working with our students: Ashley and Issac.

A new life in Korce

We were picked up at the Tirana airport by a professional driver sent by our host family. He was able to phone the Loring family that our luggage did not make it, but we were reassured that this does happen and it would be sent to us. I wanted to keep my eyes open, though terrifically tired, to see the our new country. The first part of the four hour trip was through the capitol city of Tirana. I soon realized the need for a professional driver as car dodged pedestrians, taxis, buses, crazy drivers, donkey carts, and delivery trucks, through city streets, then onward and Upward across the mountains to Korca. John was with either so exhausted or so frightened that he closed his eyes and did not see much of the adventures journey as our pro driver would pass slow moving trucks around the narrow curving mountain roads. There was one viewpoint where we stopped to take pictures of Lake Ohrid which is on the border of Macedonia and Albania. Our driver pointed out beyond the ridge of mountains was also the border between Greece and Albania. We arrived to find our new host family to welcome us and show us our new home. We are able to stay for six weeks in a nicely furnished apartment compliments of a Dutch couple who are currently on home leave.

Arriving in Korca Albania

Our daughter, Gretchen, shuttled us to KCI on Monday, September 12th. We each had a backpack and a small roll-on as carry-on luggage packed with essentials in case our three large pieces of checked baggage did not arrive with us. Good planning as those three pieces of checked luggage did not arrive in Tirana when we did. Our flight out of Chicago was delayed due to a slowed baggage scanner, according to the pilot. We landed in Brussels with no cross Atlantic sleep and 30 minutes to make the transfer eto our next flight. John said he felt like O.J. Simpson's commercial as we ran down the stairway, through the long, long passage ways, short wait (fortunately) through passport check, and able to find the gate where we were to board our next flight with 2 minutes to spare. Whew! As I passed by the first flight attendant, I asked for water, please. I was so thankful she brought a cup of cold water just as we were seated.

We had a very strong feeling that our checked baggage did not make the very speedy run through the airport that we had just made, though the stewardess assured us that every effort is made to keep checked luggage and passenger together. From Brussels we flew to Budapest where we also had to go through passport control. We were there with enough time to change clothes, brush teeth, and rest before the final leg of the trip to Albania.